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  • zaken1 05/14/10 2:54 am PST

    Thank you for posting the brand and model. You can see a photo of the coils and coil boots in the following two links: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf
    o...
    ) and in (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf
    o...
    )

    These photos show that you need to remove each coil in order to reach and remove the plug underneath it. If you can remove a coil; you will then be able to access and remove the plug; without removing any additional parts. This should not require removing the intake manifold. All the coils are identical, and all the coil boots are also identical. This means that the procedure for removing any one spark plug is the same as for any other one. All the spark plugs are located at the bottom of metal tubes called spark plug wells. The coils are bolted to the engine, directly above each plug, with the coil boot extending down into the spark plug well and pressed on to the terminal end of the spark plug. Each coil is held in place by one mounting bolt, and has a wiring harness plug connected to it. To remove a coil; just unplug its harness connector (which may require releasing a latch on the connector) and remove the coil mounting bolt. The coil should then be able to be pulled straight up off the spark plug and removed. You may need to rotate the coil slightly at first, to break the friction seal of the boot. After the coil is out of the way, insert a 16mm (5/8") spark plug socket, a 3/8" ratchet with a pivoting handle and a suitable length extension onto the plug, and unscrew and lift the plug out. I strongly recommend using a magnetic spark plug socket (from Snap On or a specialized automotive tool supplier). You can do an Internet search for "magnetic spark plug socket" or find the local Snap On distributor in the white pages business section of your telephone book.

    It is recommended to apply a thin, even coat of anti sieze compound to the new spark plug threads before installation. This will prevent the plug from corroding to the cylinder head threads over time. Be careful to not get any anti sieze on the plug porcelain insulator. Using a Q-tip to apply it to the threads is a neat way to keep it where it is intended. It is also recommended to apply a small amount of silicone dielectric grease to the rubber boot on the end of the coil before pressing the boot onto the plug (but don't use a Q-tip which has anti sieze on it for applying silicone dielectric grease. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver or a new Q-tip for that.). This will prevent spark leakage from that joint.

    Always start turning the spark plug threads into the engine by hand. That way, you can feel whether the threads are meshing straight. The one thing you don't want to do would be to cross thread the plug into the engine!!! That could become a major hassle to repair. It is also important to tighten the plug securely; but not to overtighten it. Turn the plug in until it becomes a little harder to turn. That is where the plug gasket begins to be compressed. Keep turning it until the amount of effort required to turn the plug suddenly increases (to about 15 lb.ft). Stop at that point, and do not try to force the plug any further in. The plug is now fully tightened.

    Insert the coil boot into the plug well, and push the end of the boot over the terminal on the end of the plug. Reattach the coil mounting bolt, and insert the harness plug into the coil. fasten the wiring plug latch, and you're done.

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