Answers

It's not complex at all, just there isn't anything for you to adjust.
If the cam sensor or crank sensor aren't cracked, then check codes with a scanner and let us know what you get.

Check compression. Specifically, what did you get in each cylinder?
Check fuel pressure. Specifically, what EXACTLY was the fuel pressure? How many pounds?
Use a spark tester for coil on plug applications. How did you check for spark?
If you used a screwdriver, there is a good possibility that you have killed the ignition module in the process.
Are you certain that you have the plug wires correct?

Let us know what you get.

2

1

Report it

Here is a link that shows how to set everything...

Hope it helps


Doc J

Source: http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,272...

2

0

Report it

The engine is at a auto repair shop,he says compression is 130,checked all fuel injectors and are working porperly.He checked all 8 plugs with a spark tester all is good.We had programmer come in and check the the computer all is working just fine all sensors are working properly.On the outside there should be no reason why it will not turn over according to my mechanic,who besides himself has three other ASE certifide mechanics

0

0

Report it

By the way thanks for helping out

0

1

Report it

Looks like your compression is good and you checked spark.

I didn't see anything about the fuel pressure?
Have they tried squirting fuel into the throttle body and see if it wants to fire then?

Does it sound like it wants to fire, pop or anything?

I would try primering with a little squirt of fuel and see if it wants to fire. If it does, then its definitely a fuel problem.

2

1

Report it

If the spark and compression is good, computer is good that only really leaves two things
1) Is it getting fuel, is the fuel pressure correct? Is there any obstructions in the fuel lines (i.e. clogged fuel filter etc..)
2.) does it fire at all and just not catch? How about the air intake if so?
If its at a auto repair shop and has 3 ASE Cert. techs, they should know how to deal with the timing and setup.
It has to be fuel or air related. If the other items are good to go (spark, compression etc..)

2

0

Report it

They tried spraying fuel in the throttle body but it still won't fire all fuel injectors have been checked they have gone thru this engine with a fine tooth come to find the problen they had the truck now for two months

0

0

Report it

What does a scanner tell them?
What does te scanner say the timing is set at?
It should give them the base timing.

If the base timing shows correct on the scanner, then you know that the ignition timing isn't the problem.

Again, does the engine spit, sputter, pop or try to fire??
If it does nothing, then recheck the spark to the plugs.
Even if the timing was way off, if you have proper spark to the plugs, it should at least pop and sputter. If it doesn't, then you have no spark or improper spark.

One other thing that they should check.
Have them swap out the ASD (Auto Shut Down) relay with spare or Condenser relay and see if it starts then.

Check to make sure that the crank sensor and cam sensor have been properly installed and are not cracked or broken and that the connector is connected and secure.

1

0

Report it

I will ask my mechanic about the base timing and the asd,I know it does not fire at all ,but he say they have spark, sensors were checked and wiring all ok

0

0

Report it

I gotta be honest with you.
You may want to be thinking about having another shop deal with this.

If your "mechanic" sprayed fuel into the throttle body and it didn't at least pop, sputter, cough or make some indication that it wanted to fire, then you have no spark.
Plain and simple.

I have to also wonder about the work that was done. If the crank or cam sensor were damaged on installation, then that could cause a no start.

2

1

Report it

I agree with Opatience,
If they sprayed the TB with starter fluid (or whatever) it should've at least burped or bumped or whatever you want to call it :-), if there is spark present. Unless, and there is a very little chance of this, that the butterfly valve is completely shut blocking all incoming air/fluid.
Just for the heck of it, see if it is opening and closing and if there is any obstructions. I only suggest this because it looks like just about everything basic has already been done (or has it?).
There is no reason for your truck to be in the shop for this length of time. I can understand very difficult/challenging diasgnosic problems and they take time (been there done that), but not a week or so. If this shop has a decent diagnostic setup, qualified techs, and enough techs it should be out the door by now (except for the occassional part that is on order or a rebuild). I would go back in there and sit down with the service manager and techs and go over everything that has been done and get some answers. If not satisfactory, start looking for another shop. If these guys are really qualified and are really trying but can't get it right they would probably be glad to see someone else get it done for you. (I've had one or two things that I wasn't sure/qualified to do but tried and couldn't get it and then had someone else do it and was happy that the person got their car fixed, it made me mad that I couldn't get it (ego, and love a challenge)but the owner comes first!) If they are just milking you for parts and labor cost (more time on the diag machinces, techs etc..) they'll be against it. Test the waters and you decide.

Another book by Pat :-)

1

0

Report it

I have to agree with 0patience. Get your vehicle out of there. It's becoming an ATM for these mechanics. And as 0patience said they may have done some type of damage during the course of repair. 3 or 4 ASE certified mechanics and they can't find, and repair your Ram take it eslewhere. Your money is good all over town. As much as I like to save money, I think maybe this is the time to bring it to Dodge, pay the price once and for all. And enjoy your vehicle. I wish you the best of luck. I can only imangine your frustration hearing their stories of what they've done, and yet nothing has really ever happened to correct it. Please let use know the final outcome. We all share this site, and believe me we do care and we all learn from sharing stories.

0

0

Report it

Sorry for not getting right back work took me away .This will be the third different auto repair shop that has looked at it and all the same answers ,dealership here locally is out of the question

0

0

Report it

Ok, you are at a new shop now (right?).
Have them do all the basics again just to ensure that all that was reported by the other shops were correct and done.
(a) Check fuel pressure
(b) Check spark
(c) Check Compression on all cylinders
(d) Have a complete diagnostic reading done (Tech 2 and others)
(e) Check air intake system
(f) check timing

It has to fall into one of these areas (unless your vehicle is named Christine :-) ).
Has the shop done all of this? The gremlin has to be in one of these areas. I keep asking because I'm getting fustrated with all of this (just like you are) and there is no way that all of these Techs who are supposedly certified can not find the problem. (please note: after rereading this my tone seems like I'm doubting you, which I am not. It makes me mad and gives those of us who do this as an occupation a bad name. I wish I could get my hands on the vehicle to work it out!)

1

0

Report it

No I do not think your are doubting me at all and before I sent the truck to this shop I made sure that they will perform all the tests that you guys have past on to me.I will talk to them today and see how the progress is coming they have had Christine for two days now.The last mechanic had outstanding references in my town as someone who could fix anything and some of the references I talked too back up everything that was said.He was upset that I moved the truck because he was dead set on getting that thing running but sooner or later the cost of parts so far is getting expensive and I am wondering about getting a rebuilt engine instead of dumping money down a hole.

0

1

Report it

Let us know what they tell you.
I can understand why he's mad he's probably like me, once I get a challenging problem I hate to get pulled off of it (I'm pig headed and won't stop until there is nothing else to do or get pulled off, even then I hate it, but the customer/owner comes first). Your mechanic with references is probably a good one (especially w/all the ref's and rep) some times we all get stumped.
This is a case of one of those rare occasions when something very small is stumping everyone. It does happen but rarely (I think it's possessed, if the radio turns on and the car starts rolling get out of Christine's way :-) ).
I did talk to a few fellow Techs last night and we decided it has to be one of the above issues and something small and overlooked. It's very hard diagnosing over the computer without being able to see, touch, hear and driving.

When you did the rebuild on the engine, what exactly did you do? What parts were replaced and were they OEM or aftermarket and correct? (should've asked this a long time ago). What caused you to do the rebuild? How long ago did you rebuild and how did it run right after (actually, did it run at all after rebuild, initial start up?)?
Let us know the above and I will dig some more.
By the way, what state are you in?

1

1

Report it

The engine was rebuilt buy my brother inlaw he works at a engine shop that does valves cylinder sleeves pistons.It was done 6 months ago and since it was going to be rebuilt we did everything,pistons new heads,new timing gears & chain,fuel injectors,new sensors,basically everything is new except the block.I lost compression on two cylinders after 100,000 miles on it but Dodge had rebuilt it at 75,000 miles because of engine sludge and it was still under power train warranty.Well the new shop has done all the checking and it still will not fire,they say the same as before,compression,spark,fuel,sensors,wiring all is ok that it is not ingniting in the cylinders for some reason they want to take the front end off and look at it.I live in Southwest Fla.

0

1

Report it

If the vehicle shows compression, fuel pressure, spark and everything, then the most likely culprit is the computer.
This should be put on a quality scanner to monitor the values.
If the values are all out of wack, then either the grounds to the computer or the computer itself is bad.

You have confirmed that that the valves are opening?

3

1

Report it

Once again, I have to agree with Opatience.
If everything mechanically checks out (i.e. properly installed, correctly timed/placed, correct parts, no poltergeists,, etc..) it comes down to electrical/computer like he said, check the computer to see if it is grounded properly, all fuses/relays/circuit breakers are good to go, and then have the computer checked.
If it comes down to the computer needing replaced, check your local junk yard for the same year truck or a year either way. You could save yourself $100's (even 1000). Most trucks are there because of blown engines or wreck and the main computer unit isn't touched or harmed. I went to one yard to get a junk one to just to get the case and looked around and just about every vehicle (at least 8 out of 10) had a good unit in it. So whenever I have to replace one for a customer I always give this option. (ex. replaced 1998 camaro wiring harness and computer for a friend paid $15 for harness (had to remove it myself though) and I think the computer system was either $25 or $35, I know I walked out of there paying $75 (I also picked up a few other parts too).
I'm running up to the local college today and will stop in and talk to the Head Instructor of the Autotech course and see what his ideas are (this guy is a wonder!!!).

1

1

Report it

The computer was redone buy a company out of Jacksoville Fla that has a lifetime warranty on it and the last mechanic had someone come in and checked the computer and it was working properly.The current mechanic has just retraced all electrical wiring and sensors and everything is fine with the wiring.He says for some reason there is no combustion in the cylinders even though it has spark.They are going to break down the front and take a look

1

1

Report it

Hey, i am new here and i would like a shot at trying to help out with your truck seeing that you have been going from place to places trying to get her going. I have read all what your friends have said, and those checks turn up as failures as the problem of nt starting persist. You have check cam and crank did you check the position sensor, this work with the timming. Have the timming re-check, you'll be getting compression but if the timming is off the compression will fire but wont start. You'll be getting gas and spark, so my suggestion to you is re-check the timming because the timming has alot to so with it. So get them to rotate and get # 1 piston up (tdc) and set the head timming and i am sure your christine will start up and purr. Let me know how it work out. ( waggawee ) That dont sound like electrical but mechinical problem ok.

Source: Auto Electrican

0

1

Report it

Hello-I worked for Dodge for 16 years until a stroke got me so my memory isn't what it should be, but just a suggestion. The flexplate/flywheel has small window openings spaced around it. On some engines the crank sensor must be lined up in the correct window to trigger the ignition process to begin. This may not help at all but it shouldn't take but a minute to double check. That engine is a combo effort between Chrysler and Mercedes and I do remember something about the timing being a pain. Double check the cylinder sequence when checking the compression. Seems like something on the SBEC has to be grounded out before the timing can be set correctly. Also that one has the coils mounted directly to the plugs doesn't it? One other thing make sure you have a good "non-painted" ground mount on both ends.
Good Luck

0

1

Report it

First off, let me just say that after reading your posts and the responses, you blew me away! I have sitting in my driveway, a vehicle with the same exact symptoms! I'm an automotive and truck tech and have been for 20 + years, nevertheless I cannot figure this car out. I believe the problem may lean towards a vacuum problem but have yet to find it. Since it seems that you have been through practically everything one could think of, the only advice I can offer is check that the cats are not plugged. I hope you find the problem and post the solution so I might solve my own Christine. I'm stumped! lol

0

0

Report it

Any resolution to your problem? I just rebuilt my 2001 Dodge Ram 4X4 1500 5.2 liter after one of the heads cracked. I only had a correction hone done, crank polished, valve job, re-man head to repace the cracked one, and I put all stock parts in it, standard size bearings, etc. All tolerances were good. I have spark, fuel, good compression, and timing is good, as I did it myself. I squirted starting fluid down the throttle body -- nothing. Not even a backfire. However, I put back in the old cam and crank sensors. Also, I have P0601 code from the computer, which indicates "Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error." Haven't the foggiest what that means. Does the PCM need to be reprogrammed after a rebuild? Or do I need a new one? Any ideas? Thanks for any help....

0

0

Report it

He may have to open the front of the motor to check and make sure the v8 mark is at 12 oclock with double mark links of chain and the single mark link of chain is at 6 oclock for crank. as well the single mark in chain should me lined with point of R on right side and mark of chain lined with point of point of L on left side. the V8 marks should both be at 12 oclock on cam shaft gears. This is how I got mine to fire after replacing heads. You should be abel to see schemadic from your local shop.

0

0

Report it