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  • lokki 06/24/09 5:12 pm PST

    Here's a forum (Link Below) where a 2004 Yukno( A Tahoe is the same vehicle) owner describes exactly your problem and the solution:

    "You have broken (Blend Door) actuators. I drive an '04 Yukon, and the exact same thing happened to me. The driver's side vents were blowing out hot air, and everything else was blowing cold. I put a pyrometer up to the driver's side to have it read 150F coming out of the vents.

    The actuators are what regulate the mixture of warm and cool air coming into the vents. Yes, you can turn off the engine, restart, and everything will be fine. But as time goes by (took about 6 months for me), you'll literally have to restart your tahoe/yukon at every traffic light to keep cold air coming out of your vents. The problem will only get progressively worse.

    When I took mine to the dealer last summer to have them look at it, they disconnected the battery, and even used their computer to reset the actuators ect. None of it works. The guy at the dealer even said 90% of the time it doesn't work.

    You'll have to get them replaced. It was about a grand to do that. BUT, you can call GM, and nag them until they agree to help cover the costs. What my dad and I did was tell them that the driver side vent blowing 150F was a major safety issue, and it could put a driver/passengar in danger. It worked. We paid $500, GM paid $500."




    Source: http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.ph
    p...

  • yfrankiii 08/05/09 2:40 am PST

    Hould not have been from oil change...seems a very common problem..I have 2005 Chevy silverado, same as GMC Sierra with dual climate control. I was getting hot air on drivers side but Passenger side was cold. I was also getting air only out of the defrost vents. I had to change battery for other reasons but noticed after I disconnect batteries, (2 for diesel) the air now worked in the front vents.....odd...but perhaps just needed to reset position on door flap but that only lasted a litte while and again had same problems. Anyways, took to dealer, said I need left side temperature door actuator and recirculation actuator per their trouble codes, wanted $290 for each actuator, each is the same part number. and another $460 for labor, over a thousand dollars. Researched internet and found someone had removed actuator and open it up, cleaned grease off the contact and circuit board and it worked for them. I figured worth a shot. I removed the actuator on the drivers side, right behind and above the gas pedal. I removed the actuator by removing two screws bottom and top. There is a backing plate or actuator plate that is a large half circle shape with small geared edge and two channels cut out in upper edge. Remove plate with actuator. Mark the location of actuator in reference to the plate. with actuator removed and unplugged i started engine and turned on AC. Move the white gear that was attached to the gearing on actator plate manually and see if cold air now flows to vents on drivers side. Mine did. I took apart actuator with small flat screwdrive and small pick to open clips on all sides. nothing springs apart. just remember how gears fit together, I removed gears and used q-tips and some alcohol to clean off contacts and board, You will see a split contact on black piece that backing plate locks into. Clean contacts and the bands they rub on. with gears out, i checked with 9 volt battery with small aligator cips to see if motor spins, reverse polarity to test both ways. Before you pop the cover back on, make sure the actuator fits into the backig plate in the same position. I had to take mine apart again because I didnt have the geas lined up to be in same position for alignment with backing plate. I have to slip gears out and move the black gear on tooth over so it lined up the same as before taking apart. Mine worked so I reassembled and re installed. INstallation is a pain. found with engine running and ac blowing i could move white gear on HVAC unit towards the back of car or and since its blwing the vaccum holds it in that position, same as the small knob to the front on the that needs to be pushed up to move another flap inside the HVAC unit. With those in place, put actuator plate back up against HVAC unit, one curved slot for where screw goes into a small tower hole and knob that you pushed up goes into outmost channel slot and white gear matches up to geared area on plate, Be careful, on back of white gear there is small knob that needs to slip into channel slot on backing actuator plate then press plate flatly against the HVAC unit. You can then slip on actuator unit into the spot that you marked previously to line up with backing plate. Screw in screws. Shut off engine prior to hooking up wiring. then restart and hopfully like mine...that wil work for you too. saved me a $1000....

  • truckbro 08/23/12 2:00 pm PST

    Your problem is likely a broken blend door. This problem usually entails haveing the dash removed and the heater core replaced, and costs around a thousand. However I was able to find a kit called the HeaterTreater. My local garage installed it for me and my total cost was around $250....also it only took an hour to install!

    Source: 

  • slowpokems 10/01/12 10:35 pm PST

    Driver side actuator is easy to get to. Pulled mine and tested with 9 volt battery to motor. Swap polarity on battery to change positions. Now I need the pinout for the wiring harness so I can determine if wiring harness or actuator is the problem. Meanwhile I can change temp with temporary wire lead to motor. It's pretty simple solution and gets cold air for now.... Rock auto has replacement actuator for about $45.00 with shipping.

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