Edmunds Answers

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  • avatar MrShift@Edmunds 03/31/12 1:59 pm PST

    Depends if you have a 12 pin or 16 pin Data Control Link. If it's 16 pin, then you have to use a scan tool.


    If it is 12 pin, then you use pins A and B:

    As you look at the connector, the top row, all the way to the right is the A pin, and right next to it, on its left, is the B.

    So it's:

    F E BLANK BLANK B A on the top row.

    Then you use this procedure:

    SYSTEM CHECK:
    The system check is performed through the twelve pin data link connector (DLC) under the instrument panel in the passenger compartment.


    1. With ignition "ON" and the engine not running, observe the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). The lamp should be"ON". This is a bulb check to verify the "SES" light is working, and that the computer can complete the circuit. If there is no "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light, refer to DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS/A-CHARTS/CHART A-1, NO MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP . See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures\Related Tests and Information\A Charts\Chart A-1 No Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
    2. Ground the diagnostic test terminal (connect DLC terminals "A" & "B") and observe the MIL lamp. When the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition "ON" and the engine "OFF", the lamp will go "OFF" for a moment, then flash a code 12. Code 12 is displayed by the MIL lamp flashing once, followed by a short pause, then two flashes in rapid succession, then a longer pause, and the code will repeat two more times. This is a diagnostic mode check. Code 12 displays to indicate the computers diagnostic mode is working. After code 12 is displayed a total of three times, any stored diagnostic trouble codes will be displayed in in the same manner, in numerical order. Each code will display three times before the next stored code. After all diagnostic trouble codes are displayed, code 12 will display again, and repeat until diagnostic mode is exited by removing the jumper wire from the diagnostic connector.


    If you don't get a code 12, then you have a problem in the data link harness itself perhaps and you'll need a repair shop to further diagnose.


Answers

  • MrShift@Edmunds 03/31/12 1:59 pm PST

    Depends if you have a 12 pin or 16 pin Data Control Link. If it's 16 pin, then you have to use a scan tool.


    If it is 12 pin, then you use pins A and B:

    As you look at the connector, the top row, all the way to the right is the A pin, and right next to it, on its left, is the B.

    So it's:

    F E BLANK BLANK B A on the top row.

    Then you use this procedure:

    SYSTEM CHECK:
    The system check is performed through the twelve pin data link connector (DLC) under the instrument panel in the passenger compartment.


    1. With ignition "ON" and the engine not running, observe the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). The lamp should be"ON". This is a bulb check to verify the "SES" light is working, and that the computer can complete the circuit. If there is no "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light, refer to DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS/A-CHARTS/CHART A-1, NO MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP . See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures\Related Tests and Information\A Charts\Chart A-1 No Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
    2. Ground the diagnostic test terminal (connect DLC terminals "A" & "B") and observe the MIL lamp. When the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition "ON" and the engine "OFF", the lamp will go "OFF" for a moment, then flash a code 12. Code 12 is displayed by the MIL lamp flashing once, followed by a short pause, then two flashes in rapid succession, then a longer pause, and the code will repeat two more times. This is a diagnostic mode check. Code 12 displays to indicate the computers diagnostic mode is working. After code 12 is displayed a total of three times, any stored diagnostic trouble codes will be displayed in in the same manner, in numerical order. Each code will display three times before the next stored code. After all diagnostic trouble codes are displayed, code 12 will display again, and repeat until diagnostic mode is exited by removing the jumper wire from the diagnostic connector.


    If you don't get a code 12, then you have a problem in the data link harness itself perhaps and you'll need a repair shop to further diagnose.


  • georgelemon 03/31/12 4:03 pm PST

    hi george here
    its a 16 pin hook up wires coming to 4,5,8 on top and 9, 14, and 16.
    so do i still need a scan tool or can i jump any of these wires to get the codes?

  • MrShift@Edmunds 03/31/12 4:28 pm PST

    Not sure but my 'book" (ALL DATA) says you need a scan tool for the 16 pin.

    here's what is says:

    ".

    NOTE: If the Data Link Connector is the 16 PIN type, a scan tool must be used to display diagnostic trouble codes. See procedures for use with a diagnostic scan tool.

  • georgelemon 04/01/12 10:21 am PST

    hello, it's george again.

    So what i'v done is ordered a EQU US 3123 OBD Scan Tool. I found one for 19 bucks. Do you think this is the right tool for the job. If not which one should i b gettin. i can always send this one back plus it was;nt a very big investment if its the one that works. thnks, gl

  • MrShift@Edmunds 04/01/12 12:00 pm PST

    It should specify that it scans OBD-I systems. If it says only OBD-II, then that won't work.

    You might also see if stores like Autozone or OReilly would do this for you for free---they often do this so that you'll buy the part from them. But they don't always have equipment for OBD-I systems like yours.

  • georgelemon 04/01/12 3:48 pm PST

    hello Mr. shiftright,
    did that done that. your right. they didn't have the right scan tool. Neither did o'rieleys. They carrie the scan tool that scans both obd I and obd II. they will not work. the 94 was the transiton year. from obd I to obd II.and for some reason this car is very specific about how to get the codes. Now having said that I think the car is worth fixing. So how many sensor's do you think are involved in this situation. 3 4 5 . if for some reason i get this obd I reader and it don't work. And I decided to change out all the sensor's on the car. Which one's would you change out and in what order.
    Thanx G

  • MrShift@Edmunds 04/03/12 1:37 am PST

    which sensors are you talking about here? Certainly a bad Throttle Positioning sensor or a bad MAF sensor could cause these drivability problems. Why don't you look up "How to clean a Throttle Body" and "How to clean a MAF sensor" on Youtube videos and give that a shot before you spend money on all these sensors?

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