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  • avatar shafotti 06/03/11 10:03 am PST

    This happened to me. And googleing the solution was very unproductive so I decided to take stuff apart and figure it out. I fixed it. Here's how. First, other forums told me that pressing on the brake releases a lever that allows you to shift from park, and that is true. Then I was told that the mechanism that releases that lever is broken and you can remove the gear shift trim, press on a pink lever to release the gear shift. That did NOT work and besides, when I pressed on the brake, I still heard the 'click' and that told me that the brake/release mechanism still functioned and that I should look elsewhere for the problem.

    Here's what ultimately solved the problem. I had to remove the gear shift housing. In order to do that, I had to remove the center console. At first, it seemed like a daunting task but in the end, screw/fastener removal was logical and the parts went back together in a snap. Still, my wife saw the project mid-progress and got scared. No worries, happy ending. Anyway, once I removed the gear shift housing, I noticed another pink lever that was never mentioned in any of my google attempts. This other pink lever fits in a notch within the gear shift assembly and should be released as soon as you push the gear shift to the right on it's way down to the reverse position but only if the key is turn to the 'On' position. This lever is spring loaded. In my case, the little tiny plastic clip on the inside of the gear shift housing that holds a 10 cent spring (I'm guessing its 10 cents) was broken. That's it.

    So my choices were to either buy a new gear shift housing assembly for $300+ or use a dremmel tool to saw off the portion of the this pink lever that fits inside the aforementioned notch. I'm broke so I chose the latter. 3 hours later, my 2006 Pacifica was mobile again. So what's the down side of sawing that piece off? Now it's possible to pull the key out of the ignition while the car is still running. If you can deal with that, you can save a lot of money. However, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF HARM COMES TO YOU OR YOUR CAR BY PERFORMING THE SAME FIX AS I DID! But now you know.

Answers

  • karjunkie 04/11/10 1:18 pm PST

    Did you do what the manual suggested? This is an override to the brake shift interlock which requires you to step on the brake before you can shift out of neutral or park. If it will not come out of park when you press the pink tab then I would say it it is in the shifter itself. Do you hear the click when you step on the brake? The ignition key also interlocks the lever but that does not sound like the problem. One other thing you could try is to pull the cable end off the shaft in the engine compartment and see if the shaft moves by hand. The cable is a press fit on the shaft and can be pulled up. If you can't get it to work, disconnect the cable so you can get the car in gear and then you can drive it to the repair shop.

  • kay3578 04/11/10 1:39 pm PST

    Thank you for taking the time to answer.
    I tried it again and no luck.
    As for your other suggestion, I do not even know where to start as I am completely cluless on where anything is....

    will the car be able to be towed? or it has to be in the neutral position before it can be moved?

  • karjunkie 04/11/10 3:40 pm PST

    Yeah, it can be towed with the driven wheels hoisted up.

  • shafotti 06/03/11 10:03 am PST

    This happened to me. And googleing the solution was very unproductive so I decided to take stuff apart and figure it out. I fixed it. Here's how. First, other forums told me that pressing on the brake releases a lever that allows you to shift from park, and that is true. Then I was told that the mechanism that releases that lever is broken and you can remove the gear shift trim, press on a pink lever to release the gear shift. That did NOT work and besides, when I pressed on the brake, I still heard the 'click' and that told me that the brake/release mechanism still functioned and that I should look elsewhere for the problem.

    Here's what ultimately solved the problem. I had to remove the gear shift housing. In order to do that, I had to remove the center console. At first, it seemed like a daunting task but in the end, screw/fastener removal was logical and the parts went back together in a snap. Still, my wife saw the project mid-progress and got scared. No worries, happy ending. Anyway, once I removed the gear shift housing, I noticed another pink lever that was never mentioned in any of my google attempts. This other pink lever fits in a notch within the gear shift assembly and should be released as soon as you push the gear shift to the right on it's way down to the reverse position but only if the key is turn to the 'On' position. This lever is spring loaded. In my case, the little tiny plastic clip on the inside of the gear shift housing that holds a 10 cent spring (I'm guessing its 10 cents) was broken. That's it.

    So my choices were to either buy a new gear shift housing assembly for $300+ or use a dremmel tool to saw off the portion of the this pink lever that fits inside the aforementioned notch. I'm broke so I chose the latter. 3 hours later, my 2006 Pacifica was mobile again. So what's the down side of sawing that piece off? Now it's possible to pull the key out of the ignition while the car is still running. If you can deal with that, you can save a lot of money. However, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF HARM COMES TO YOU OR YOUR CAR BY PERFORMING THE SAME FIX AS I DID! But now you know.

  • tony168 07/25/11 12:00 am PST

    I had the same problem with my 2005 Pacifica. I was able to fix the problem myself with minimum tools. The most specific tool that you will need is a drill with a very small bit. I would like to help if I could, no cost. I understand how it is to have a used car and something goes wrong and you dread the mechanics bill. So if your not lazy and want to learn something I will walk you through it. I have pictures that I will post soon.Shafotti was the closest responder on this site that got it right.

    Source: 

  • jbreit01 09/21/11 11:13 am PST

    http://www.custombilletstore.com/produc
    t_p/1028.htm


    This problem also happened to me. However, I found the part online that replaces the second pink lever. The new part is made of metal so the part will never break again. I made the emergency fix with the dremel, ordered the part, and a week later the part came. I am making the permanent fix today. Follow the link above to order the new part. It costs around 49.00 including tax and shipping. It will take you appx 2 hours to remove the shifter, change the part, and reinstall.

  • dontcareo 01/31/13 12:50 pm PST

    This is an easy fix. I know others have posted about the metal replacement part that shows a video on how to replace the "pink thingy". The video online just shows how to replace the part once the shifter is out of the car. I thought I would explain how to get to that point. It's actual name of the part is the shifter inter lock lever or also called the park lock out mechanism. It comes with a small spring and a plastic piece. It cost less then 8 bucks from the dealer. It is the same part that goes in the pacifica, charger, magnum, 300, etc. It's just a faulty 10 cent piece of plastic. What happens is on the plastic piece is a little hook that the spring connects too and over time it wears out and breaks. The spring flys off and makes it so the shifter can not come out of park.

    The Chrysler part name and number is shifter inter lock lever 68088259AB.

    So here is the video once you have the shifter out
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_QMSBpY
    ThI


    How do you get the shifter out? You will need a phillips head screw driver, a small flat head screw driver, and a ratchet with a 10mm socket. I pull out the ashtray and use that to hold the 18 screws and 4 nuts that you will need to remove.

    1. Start on the driver side of the car. Move the driver seat all the way back. On the side of the center console toward the floor mat there are 2 phillips head screws. Remove those.
    2. Move the driver seat all the way forward. Go into the rear seat and on the side of the console just behind the drivers seat is 1 phillips head screw. Remove that.
    3. Go to the passenger side and repeat the same process. So now you have removed 6 screws.
    4. Back to the driver side move the seat all the way back and sit in the seat.
    5. Open the lid in the console. There are 4 screws around the edge of the lid. Two toward the front of the car and two toward the rear. Remove those. Hopefully by this point you have removed all of your stuff from inside the console. At the bottom of the console is 2 more screws. Remove those. At this point you should have 12 screws that you removed.
    6. Unscrew your shifter knob. Turn it to the left to unscrew.
    7. Around your shifter is a plate. It goes around where you shift through the gears. Pick a corner of it and pry up. Work your way around the corners and it will come off in one piece.
    8. The plastice piece that is under that plate also pops off. Grab both sides of it and pull up slightly. You will see a wire connected to the underside. This is what lights up the P, R, N, D etc. To get this out grab the connector with your fingers and turn it to the left.
    9. Once those two pieces are removed you will see two more screws toward the rear of the shifter. Remove those.
    10. Toward the front of the two pieces you just took off and under and to each side of the front power outlets there are two more screws. Remove those. At this point you have removed 16 screws.
    11. Remove the rubber cup holder insert. There are two screws to remove under that.
    12. That's it for the screws. 18 total.
    13. Depending on how big you are the next step is up to you and what is most comfortable. I get on my knees in the driver seat. With my right hand I grab the rear of the console and pull up slightly. This is so you can see which wires run from front to back to the rear power outlet.
    14. Once you know which wires those are unplug the connector. Mine was to the fron and passenger side of the shifter.
    15. The connector plugs all fasten one way or the other with a notch or groove into each other. None of them just unplug. So before you start pulling on the connectors look at it to see how it comes apart. This way you won't rip the wires out of the connector. Typically a real small screw driver and prying on one side of the connector will take them off.
    16. Once you unplugged the rear power outlet connector you will need to grab each side of the connector and pull up. It is fastened to the piece below and will pop up with slight preassure.
    17. At this point you will need to see if any other wires are connected to the underside of the console. Pull up slightly from the rear and have a look. This really depends on what options came on your car. Heated seats, fog lights, etc.
    18. Once all wires are unplugged from the console pull it straight up and to the back and set it in the back seats.
    19. Take your ratchet and 10mm socket and remove the 4 nuts at all four corners of the shifter.
    20. Looking down on the shifter you will see two cables. The one on the right hooks to the shifter on the side. Grab the end on the shifter and pull toward the passenger seat. Should pop right off.
    21. The cable on the left is a steel cable with a little ball on the end that sits just inside "that pink plastic thingy". Pick the whole shifter assembly up and toward the front of the car. This should give you slack in that cable to take it out.
    22. Those two cables are connnected to the shifter assembly toward the front as well. Those clips pull straight up and come off of the plastic shroud on the shifter.
    23. There is a plug toward the rear of the shifter that needs to be removed.
    24. Now your shifter will pull straight up and out of the console.
    The video link I included above will show how to replace the defective part. To put everything back just follow these steps in reverse. Start to finish this took me 45 minutes and cost me less then 8 bucks from the dealer.

    There are places online that you can get the part for 5 or 6 bucks like here:
    http://www.factorymoparparts.com/680882
    59ab.html

    But by the time you add on shipping it is still cheaper at the dealership.

    Here is a link to the console parts you will be removing to give you an idea of how they go together
    http://autopartsoem.net/chryslerparts/2
    005-chrysler-pacifica-parts.html


    Hope this helps.

  • huskydad11 07/01/13 2:55 pm PST

    I followed dontcareo's instructions above to the T and it all worked perfectly! (Thanks for the detailed steps.) I had taken everything out/apart yesterday (Sunday) and couldn't do much more since dealerships are closed on Sundays. Went this morning and bought 2 of the kits (a second one since I was already there and who knows when it will break again in the future). Each kit was about $7. I saw do-it-yourself, home-made fixes on YouTube, but figured it was easier just going to the dealership.

    Spent a few minutes during lunch to install the new "plastic thingy" and spring. Then snapped the cover back on and tested it out...bingo. Now will put it all together after work. Don't foresee any problems there, since I'll be doing everything in reverse order per Dontcareo's steps.

    Weird how a little broken piece of plastic can knock my Pacifica out of commission. Wish I had a metal replacement instead of another plastic one.

  • rdtaylor109 08/02/13 12:59 pm PST

    Read dontcareo's instructions a couple of times, bought the part for $12 and went to work. Took about 30 minutes to disassemble, another 15 minutes to get the replacement part installed and about a half hour to reassemble. Works like a champ.

    btw-the trickiest part of the project for me was to make sure the new plastic piece was lined up correctly with the shifter mechanism. It took 2 attempts to get it right. Luckily, I tested the shifter assembly prior to putting it back in the car, just to make sure it would release.

    Also, the shifter knob was a little stubborn to unscrew at first. But, eventually, it did turn...

  • martywj 08/12/13 1:40 pm PST

    We, my wife and I, did dontcareo's fix today on our 2006 Pacifica, and everything went perfect. We did exactly per his instructions, in fact I even printed a copy out to follow along. Cost was $8.34 and about 3 hours of our time. Time included driving to the dealer to get the part and eating breakfast.

    Thanks for the help on this, saved a couple of retirees about $300+ that it would have cost us for the repair.

    Marty

  • larrybailey888 06/16/14 4:16 pm PST

    Responding to post from dontcareo:


    For an older (70) guy with mobility/flexibility issues, this process still went better than expected. The incentive of buying an $8 part and contributing some time wrestling parts out of my Pacifica was much more attractive than $300-$400 cost at the dealer. Particularly with the complication of not being able to shift out of park and thus not being able to move my car out of the driveway (more discussion on that below for Step 7). After a successful completion, I do have some comments about the steps in the process.

    Step 7: After removing this plate, 50-50 hindsight would have given me the view of a pink button area on the passenger side, Pushing down on this button with a screwdriver provides manual release of the shift lever lockout. Then, you could move the shift lever to (say) Neutral where you should be able to start and move the car. With that as up-front info, I may have been able to start the car in Neutral and then limp to the dealer and buy into the dealer cost in a situation with enough urgency. Not knowing that, I plunged on to the rest of the steps.

    Step 8: There was no wire cable connection to the second plastic piece. That connector was installed at the rear of the shifter assembly; pushing the top side of it thru an access hole with a small screwdriver allows the connector to be unplugged.

    Step 16: The portion of this mated connector assembly plugs into a hole in the base with flexible ribbed sides. This does pull up and out of the base with some simple tugging. Then, disconnecting the front half of this connector assembly from the rear half (with the wires running backwards) is easier done.

    Step 21: There was great difficulty in moving the leftside wire cable backwards far enough to free up the "ball" at the end (actually this was more of a cone-shaped crimp-on) securing the wire into the "pink plastic thingy" inside the shifter assemble. What actually worked well was to do Step 22 first for ONLY the leftside wire cable. The anchor/clip)portion for both the leftside and rightside cables each have a small side locking tab that need to be sprung outwards (frontwards) so each anchor/clip assembly can be moved upwards and loose. Then, the wire cable has plenty of slack/looseness to move the crimped end out of the "pink plastic thingy".

    The video was very helpful in showing the shifter housing disassembly and then the defective part replacement. In the assemble view, the pink lever used for manual release looked to be activated from the side than from the top (like mine); maybe the ease of access described for Step 7 above might no be possible for all versions (although that does not seem reasonable). The old spring (green sleeve for mine) had fallen out of the shifter assembly and I found it lying loose in the console base. Looking at the old defective part compared to the new replacement, the molded tab for spring attachment was MUCH beefier in the new part. Somewhere along the way Chrysler had seen the weakness in the part and made it stronger. Finally, with my age/weight limitations (and generally insecurity about tearing apart my car), it took two hours one day to disassemble and one hour the next day to reassemble (not 45 minutes). But, as a retired person, the time required was not an issue -- just very glad for a successful outcome.

    Thanks Billet Tech for the very helpful instructions.

  • rrobles33 08/02/14 2:29 am PST

    Hey I have the same issues, just ordered the billet part today hope to get it in a few days. In the mean time...did anyone else get some additional lights on their dashboard light up? My ABS light and my "car w swervy lines under it" both came on...along w the engine light...


    did anywaone else experience this or is this another problem all together?!

  • cincydude 08/08/14 1:48 pm PST

    This happened to me and I am not mechanically inclined and didn't have time to "fix" it as I was stuck in an airport parking garage with $20 per day parking rates!


    Long story short after angrily ripping a bunch of stuff apart and almost breaking the inside of my car apart, this very nice and well informed man asks me to open the trunk and he proceeds to shift me into reverse while I am in the car. Then I hit my break and he shifts me back into park to show me where and what he was doing. He bypassed the shifter in the car entirely! Now if you still have your emergency break you are in business but if like me Chrysler screwed that up too and you had to have it removed then it gets a little tricky (stay flat when you get in and out of the car to execute this procedure)!

    Looking in the trunk you can see what looks like a fat wire coming from inside the car (in my 2007 Pacifica it is about a foot below the battery left and above it). That is the cable that you need to disconnect (I'm pretty sure he did it manually without any tools) and it then just moves the transmission through P, R, N and D. This is MUCH MUCH faster and easier than dicking around with the internal stuff in case of need to move the car fast.

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