Answers

• mechinc1 02/22/10 4:15 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -15 minute) A few questions... Have you checked the transmission fluid level? If after you have checked it and it is full, check to see if smells burnt. If you are not familiar with the smell then you may want to take it to your mechanic Is the check engine light on? The stalling may or may not be related. (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 02/22/10 4:57 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -34 minute) Unlike the engine oil, make sure you check the tranny level with the engine running,warmed up and in the "park" position (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 02/22/10 9:19 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -12 minute) Mechinc1 & karjunkie. I just wanted to add the information I did not include in my first question. The transmission fluid was recently changed and I'm pretty sure it isn't burned. The check engine light is not on. The Jeep book I have suggests that it could be fuel injection or gas pump or vacuum lines somewhere. Is there any kind of test I can do at home to rule out other causes other then the transmission ? When I take into the mechanic, should I take it to a transmission place or an engine place? Thank you (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 02/23/10 7:54 am PST

  Edit Answer (for another -37 minute) None of the things you mention would be symptomatic of a delayed shifting problem. If you recently had the fluid changed and they used anything but ATF+4 then that is a good reason for the problem and you need to flush all that out and ONLY use ATF+4 type fluid. Now stalling when putting the car in gear can be a vacuum leak or an idle problem which means a gunked up IAC or EGR valve or dirty throttle body so cleaning all of those with throttle body cleaner and an old toothbrush is going to help. Lastly, change the PCV valve if its been more than 2-3 years since you did so. A clogged PCV valve is a common reason why you'll get stalling at idle. (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 02/23/10 6:55 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -35 minute) Thank you Karjunkie. A couple additional questions. We used ATF transmission fluid. Is there a difference between this and ATF + ? I have to say something else as well. After the fluid was changed, we discovered it had been over filled. I couldn't get any of my mechanic buddies to get it out. I went on a pretty long drive to pick up a friend from the hospital, I told the the guy I brought with me about the over filled tranny and he told me to stop so we could get some out. That we shouldnt go that far with this condition. We stopped at a little store before the freeway. We didn't have any tools. He decided he could suck it out if we had a long enough hose, which he took from somewhere under the hood. The hose with wasn't long enough, so I went into the store and got a drinking straw, which we attached to the end of the hose (with tape :-@). The straw fell off in the pan. You don't have to say it. Could the straw be causing these problems ? (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 02/24/10 7:26 am PST

  Edit Answer (for another -5 minute) Wow! That is some story! First off yes, the wrong type of fluid will mess your transmission up. ATF+4 is the exact type you must use in this transmission. It is not the most common type which is either Dexron for GM or Mercon for Ford. If you used either one of these you must drop the pan and drain it all out and replace it with ATF+4 because the Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge transmissions will not slip into gears properly without it. You definetly want to drop the pan to get that straw out! It may be affecting the operation of the transmission. (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 02/24/10 4:26 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -4 minute) I feel better now that the whole truth is out in the open. Thank you very much for your help. (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 02/24/10 4:51 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -40 minute) You're very welcome! We have all done dumb things that seemed the right thing to do at that time and the best thing is to just acknowledge it and move on! (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 02/28/10 5:35 am PST

  Edit Answer (for another 4 minutes) That's me a dumb human. But, I'm glad to relate the fluid has been changed out, along with the filter and gasket. And yes, the straw was removed as well. I haven't told the other dumb human about the error he made in his choice of tranny fluid, but at least I have more knowledge then before, for which I can thank you all for. At this point in time, I'm thinking it may be to full, but I've been instructed how to drain some fluid off, which I will do after it stops raining. I was asked to rate my opinion of you, and just in case I'm to tired right now to navigate to the right page .... I rate your knowledge 10 of 10. I will come back here tomorrow to be sure I follow through. GN (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/01/10 2:00 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -31 minute) karjunkie We have finally gotten the fluid level right. But now I am faced with another dilema. The book I have has instructions to adjust the transmission bands, but for a three speed. I don't know if it's against your policy, but if it isn't maybe you could explain the procedure to me, if it's not to long and involved. Again, I really appreciate your help but I'd so like to be done with this whole thing. Anyhow, I'll check back here later. Take care. (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 03/01/10 2:41 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another 10 minutes) I'll assume you have the 3 speed 904 chrysler tranny as that is what was in the 1995 Cherokee. It might be the 30H model but for your situation it is irrelavent. There are 2 bands that according to the service manuals are supposed to be adjusted at the time of ATF fluid changes. One band, the kickdown band, is easily accessible from outside the casing. The other is the low-reverse band and requires (at least) removal of the pan and filter (and probably also the parking rod and e-clip). I suspect you don't need to get in the case because your problem is related to the externally adjustable kickdown band. Also, in order to adjust them, they require a precision torque wrench (that reads in inch-pounds, not foot-pounds).The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the transmission case above the manual valve and throttle valve levers. (1) Raise vehicle. (2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw threads if necessary. (3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.) torque with Inch-pound Torque Wrench. (4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-1/2 turns. (5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. (6) Lower vehicle. If you don't want to spend the money on a torque wrench, any tranny shop can adjust the kickdown band in about 15 minutes for you. (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/01/10 5:12 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -18 minute) Hello again, and thank you. You mentioned 2 bands, but only described the adjustment for the external band. What about the the reverse band adjustment. If I have to drop the pan again, so be it. Thank you for your patience. (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 03/02/10 9:24 am PST

  Edit Answer (for another -7 minute) If you're not having trouble with reverse you do not need to adjust the other band. I would adjust the kickdown band first and see how she works. If all is OK, wait to adjust the other band whenever you next change the fluid and filter. (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/03/10 5:16 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -14 minute) karjunkie I'd love to say that I'm not having problems with reverse, but I can't. When I put it into reverse, it makes a weird noise and it vibrates alot. Still looking for a inch foot torque wrench by the way, so haven't done the external bands yet and no big hurry to answer this one till I get that wrench. Thank you Take care. Be in touch again as soon as I find someone with IT ! (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/14/10 11:12 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -19 minute) karjunkie, HELP ! Couldn't find anyone with an inch pound torque wrench, only foot pound, so went out and bought one, but the readings start at 120 inch pounds. I told the guy I have working on it to rent the thing if it was different then the one we could buy, but I guess he didnt understand. Also, he says it's a Laredo, which I didn't really notice. Could this make a difference in the adjustments? He had to use an extension, which changes the readings according to the little booklet that came with the wrench. I guess now he's going to go back and do it again without the adjustments for the extensions. If that doesn't work I'm sending him back to see if the one they have for rent is different then the one I bought. I doubt your around on Sundays so get back to me when you get this. Thanks again (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 03/15/10 8:48 am PST

  Edit Answer (for another -43 minute) If it's a Laredo, then this may be a Jeep Grand Cherokee not a Jeep Cherokee. Let me know which one we are talking about as there may be differences. (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/15/10 12:40 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another 9 minutes) Yes, according to the registration, it is a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It's my Dad's car. Sorry I didn't get the specifics before. (0)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/15/10 1:14 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -17 minute) karjunkie, Also, please do explain the differences that can be found in inch pound torque wrenches and if I should retrurn the one I purchased and rent the one they require $100.00 a day to rent. You get this money back when you return the tool. Thank you (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 03/15/10 1:51 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -40 minute) OK, then you probably have a 42RE tranny in that vehicle. First off, return the torque wrench and just rent the other one as the 100 bucks is just a deposit and it will be easier to work with. Now as to the adjustment for the bands, here is the info: front band: Loosen locknut and back it off about 5 turns Make sure the screw turns freely. Tighten screw to 72 inch lbs. Then back off the screw 2 7/8 turns. Tighten locknut to 30 ft lbs (hold screw while tightening the locknut) Rear Band: drain fluid, remove pan. remove adjusting screw locknut tighten adjusting screw to 72 inch lbs back off adjusting screw 2 turns hold adjusting screw still and tighten locknut to 25 ft lbs. install pan and fill with fluid. (1)(0) Report It

• helpless53 03/17/10 7:02 pm PST

  Edit Answer (for another -28 minute) karjunkie. I wish I could find a way to show you how much I appreciate all the help you've given me. At least send you a nice bottle of Irish Whiskey. The mission has been accomplished at long last. The car is running and shifting smoothly. Couldn't have done it without you. Thank you, Thank you Thank you !!!! You're the best. Now all we have to do is pack the wheel bearings, so the wheels don't shake so much, tighten up th exhaust and wash her real good. Then I can give my Dad his car back, better then it was when I borrowed it. :^} (0)(0) Report It

• karjunkie 03/18/10 7:36 am PST

  Edit Answer (for another 6 minutes) You're very welcome! Glad to be of help! (0)(0) Report It