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  • kemico 08/17/08 1:02 am PST

    Double check your wiring and make sure all connections are good. Also look for shorts on the wire harnesses for your fuel injectors, ignition coil and crankshaft sensor. Follow up with the ocnnections of the computer which should be on the passenger side or under your heater at shin level in the middle of the cab.

  • eddieking1957 08/31/08 1:26 am PST

    I had a 94 Ranger several years ago. I had almost the same problem. No spark and the coil tested ok. I found that the timing belt had snapped. That caused the coil not to work along w/ the distrib. Good luck. I replaced the belt, the truck started up fine after that. Thing is, I ha dthe timing off and had to get the timing reset

  • soms1 08/21/14 8:07 am PST

    I eventually got to your situation after 9-10 months... Here's my notes and research...


    Ford Ranger

    Summary...

    TFG Ford automotive MURF, TN $105 diagnostics
    Gold Street $75 diagnostics
    Bennett's $110 diagnostics
    Fuel pump $250
    2 fuel filters $30
    2 coil packs $120
    2 set of plugwires $100
    3 sets of plugs $150
    Cat converter $110
    Timing belt $250
    Fuel injectors and fuel regulator $275
    TLG Ford $105
    O2 sensor $50
    EGR valve $55
    ICM $110

    Details... Dealing with hesitation, not normally in 1st or 2nd gear, 99% of time in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Began intermittently in 4th & 5th after transmission replaced and plugs in November 2013. Gradually got worse Jan/Feb/March, even after another set of plugs, wires, fuel filter and pump, converter, muffler, two coils, three complete diagnostics eventually (Bennetts way off at 40-90, Car wise found no problems) pressure was averaging 140-180 compression #3 & 4 strongest. Scoping valves for valve bend burn or broken springs or others problems, leak down under 2-10%, fuel flow & pressure tests fine, amf sensor cleaned, but giving computer a high elevation read, fuel mix rich at 2000 rpm's with slight load. Easy start and even idle. Strong in first and second gear. Starts sputtering into 3rd & 4th. Acts like it is flooding out, by creating similar load as slower speed in 1st & 2nd by riding brakes till sputtering begins, and a strong smell of unburned fuel.

    Everything else checks out mechanically sound including transmission which is standard 5 speed. 145,000 miles on chassis, no leaks, no blue smoke or oil loss. Oil has 4,500 miles now, looks clean and smells okay. Well taken care of.

    One of three diagnostics showed Timing belt off or stretched by 6% and crank shaft pulley hub maybe 1% or 1/16" play.

    Just did a new pulley hub and timing belt, Also put a new egr valve in.

    Big question... what next?

    ...Computer next? Another sensor? Knock sensor? Fuel injectors even with normal fuel flow tests? What else?

    Help!

    http://www.justanswer.com/car/expert-ma
    stertechlee/

    For a $28 fee.

    Guy said... Anything will help that you can check fuel related. TP sensor esp. And of course check for vacuum leaks.

    Then...

    From the sound of things you could have a vacuum leak somewhere causing computer to add more fuel in keeping the 14.7.1 ratio.

    He's sending more info he says once he gets Bennett's diagnostic. $110

    Possible...
    Evap leak detector or leak smoker.

    Leak tamer white smoke.

    Scottie Kilmer YouTube with engine off. Cigar puffing into exhaust or in take vacuum port.

    New fuel regulator & injectors didn't make major improvement. Most noticeable improvement was o2sensor... About 10 mph added before hesitation.

    6/11/14
    They say... Will need another $800 to fix another fuel pump and cat converter and adjust timing at gold street automotive Smyrna.



    6/14 About Master Tech Lee
    36 years Ford Certified Diagnostic RepairTechnician
    Says fuel or vacuum leaks.

    7/14 changed out computer and began running much better via Nits automobile 625-8802 or 625-3752 , but check engine light began coming on and after a few weeks was on nearly all the time, unless I turned off engine and coasted then popped back into gear. Stayed off until I slowed down. Checked and found 224 code relating to coil connection problem.

    8/20/14 Some mild misfire, but still 17-21 mpg. Sluggish however.

    Tested ICM, passed multiple times at two advance auto parts. Changed it out anyway and it wouldn't start.

    Recent research...
    edmunds.com
    Ask the Car People.SM

    Question Details Asked:Feb 06, 2009 - 06:57 AMStatus:Closed
    BamaBuzz4UA
    Extremely stumped! I need the best and brightest 1994 Ford Ranger ignition/starting problem.

    Ok First a little vehicle information. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger regular cab with the 2.3 L OHC 4 cyl. It has 8 spark plugs and two coil packs. The front coil pack goes to the drivers side, and the rear coil pack going to the passenger side. Its my understanding that the 4 plugs on the passenger side fires on the exhaust stroke (not firing the engine, just burning any unburned fuel for emissions purposes) and the one on the drivers side fires on the compression stroke, which is the side that actually runs the engine.

    Ok now one to my problem; I was driving down the interstate going about 70 and the engine died on me and would not start back up. I got it home and the first thing I did was hit it with some starting fluid so see if it might be a fuel pump and nothing. Then I checked to see if it was getting spark. The plugs on the passenger side (which doesn’t run the engine) are getting spark but the ones one the drivers side are not (the ones that actually run the engine).

    So I check and the two coil packs had the same part number so I swapped them out and to my surprise it stayed the same, the drivers side was still not firing and the passengers side plugs are. So that lets me know the coils are good b/c each of them plugged into the passenger side connector will fire. Next I go to the ignition control module which has two connectors, one at each end and think that well maybe one connector controls one coil and one controls the other and it must be only giving a signal to the coil pack on the passenger side.

    Go to AutoZone and the hook it up to this machine and test it and they say its good. Said the tested it 3 times. I am lost now. Doee the 2.3 L engine have two crank sensors (my reasoning it that if each side has to fire at two different times one on the compression and one the exhaust stroke therefore needing two different inputs. Could it be a computer problem maybe not giving one coil a 5 volt reference signal? Does anyone have a PDF wiring diagram. Please help this is my work truck.

    MrShift@Edmunds
    02/06/09
    12:15 pm PST
    does this help? Maybe the ICM is bad.

    E-mail me at: mr_shiftright@edmunds.com and I can send you a schematic of the ICM wiring at least.



    "DESCRIPTION
    The main function of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is to switch between ignition coils and trigger the ignition coils to spark.

    OPERATION
    The ignition control module receives the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) and Cylinder Identification (CID) signals from the crankshaft position sensor, and the Spark Output (SPOUT) signal from the powertrain control module. During normal operation, PIP is passed on to the powertrain control module and provides base timing and rpm information. The CID signal provides the ICM with the information required to switch between the ignition coils for cylinders 1 and 4 and the ignition coils for cylinders 2 and 3. The SPOUT signal (from the contains the optimum spark timing and dwell time information. The spark angle is determined by the rising edge of the SPOUT signal because that is when coil current "turns off" and spark occurs. The dwell time is controlled or varied by varying the duty cycle (duration) of the SPOUT signal. Current flows in an ignition coil (dwell) when SPOUT is "low". This feature is called Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). Therefore, with the proper inputs of PIP, CID and SPOUT the ICM turns the ignition coils on and off in the proper sequence for spark control."




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    Answers
    MrShift@Edmunds
    02/06/09
    12:15 pm PST
    does this help? Maybe the ICM is bad.

    E-mail me at: mr_shiftright@edmunds.com and I can send you a schematic of the ICM wiring at least.



    "DESCRIPTION
    The main function of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is to switch between ignition coils and trigger the ignition coils to spark.

    OPERATION
    The ignition control module receives the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) and Cylinder Identification (CID) signals from the crankshaft position sensor, and the Spark Output (SPOUT) signal from the powertrain control module. During normal operation, PIP is passed on to the powertrain control module and provides base timing and rpm information. The CID signal provides the ICM with the information required to switch between the ignition coils for cylinders 1 and 4 and the ignition coils for cylinders 2 and 3. The SPOUT signal (from the contains the optimum spark timing and dwell time information. The spark angle is determined by the rising edge of the SPOUT signal because that is when coil current "turns off" and spark occurs. The dwell time is controlled or varied by varying the duty cycle (duration) of the SPOUT signal. Current flows in an ignition coil (dwell) when SPOUT is "low". This feature is called Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). Therefore, with the proper inputs of PIP, CID and SPOUT the ICM turns the ignition coils on and off in the proper sequence for spark control."




    (3)(0) Report It
    eviwey
    03/26/09
    9:34 pm PST
    It like this...

    after driving 20 min...just about the time i get into rush hour traffic...I lose ignition.

    I sit 30 min in middle of rush hour traffic,,,many times on interstate...blocking all cars...

    About the the cops show up wanting to know the problem

    My ignition is back and i can take off again.

    Ford 4 cyl ranger run fine again unless i let it cool down...then same event on way home.

    What kind of image am i giving to people each day when this happens?

    I change all coils, distributor, igniton module... same problem

    I suggest we not buy Ford or GM anymore; burn down or bomb those factory's.....

    I was happy with my Nissan...more miles, older, and much more reliable

    Source: Chattanooga police station

    (0)(0) Report It
    coach007
    11/26/11
    2:36 pm PST
    if you go to www.hotrodhigh.com you will find a complete listing of the 2.3 engine which is very informative...THEY say that the passenger side spark plugs FIRE on COMPRESSION stroke and DRIVER side plugs fire on EXHAUST storke.. disconnect the module from the rear coil and see if the engine fires. DO the same in reverse disconnect front coil and see if engine fires (or has spark). tHERE is only one crankshaft sensor on the 2.3 (i have a 93 2.3 with 200k).FORD quoted me $200,00 for the crank sensor (most expensive one he ever saw). I am hoping is is not the ECM ( u can only get those aftermarket or junk yard). I wish you luck but do try and stay from the local FORD dealer . BY the time they get done with you and replacing every sensor they will tell you its a bad valve spring. Been there--done that...HOTRODHIGH (fred beyer) is I think your bet bed...ood luck .. Neal Andrews Tampa fl

    © Edmunds.com, Inc.

    Thinking about putting old ICM back in as out tested okay several times. Maybe a small 20 year old wire broke as I pulled the pig tails off?




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