Edmunds Answers

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  • bandit10 07/18/08 4:44 am PST

    Can you visably see where it travels. Beginning to end? Because if you can access it, you can just cut and replace the whole fusiable link and wire tie the new link in place. Also you want to know what caused an 80 AMP link to blow in the first place. There might be an underlying issue you haven't become aware of that's causing the link to fry in the first place. That should be priorty one.

  • patrick88 07/18/08 9:53 pm PST

    If you are blowing a 80 amp fuse you had better start looking for the cause. This is a lot of current to begin with and if its blowing the fuse there is a problem. To replace after you find the problem, cut the link out and splice a new 80amp fuse back in. Word of advice, do not put in a higher rated link.

  • paullis 07/19/08 1:31 am PST

    I have resolved the problem. I know why it blew but as far as replacing is concerned you have to remove the battery, remove the fuse mount from the wheel well, 3 screws, rremove the lower plastic plate from the mount, then find the release for the 80 Amp fusible link. Once you find the release, the fuse and it's connections will pull out from under the fuse mount. You then unscrew the terminals and replace the fusible link. Then push the link back up into the mount and return all other components to where they belong. I received help from the local Toyota dealer but they didn't know that there was a release for the link. I determined that myself. Thanks for the support.

  • patrick88 07/19/08 12:41 pm PST

    So then its basically an inline fuse and not a fusable link? Because most fusable links have to be replaced and can't be taken apart (well they can but not a good idea). What circuit is this fuse on (just curious)?

  • paullis 07/19/08 1:47 pm PST

    It is a rectangular fusible link about 2" by 1" with clear plastic top and metal tabs with holes for the screws to go through. It is not repairable. I can see where one might see it as just a fuse but the manual calls it a link and it protects the wiring harness in case of overload. It is right off the + side of the battery. One other caveat, I am old enough to require reading glasses so when I went to my local NAPA dealer and he brought out a case with various of these type "links" in it I told him 80 amp and make sure since I don't have my glasses with me. Well, when I got home and was installing same I did have my glasses on and it clearly says 60 Amp on top. Moral of the story, don't trust anyone, or maybe, trust but verify. Oh, and underfusing is better than overfusing, it works.
    And as an aside, I recently purchased oil and filter for my son's '02 Taurus from O'Reilly only to find after draining the oil and removing the filter that it was the wrong filter. Think about it, unless you have another vehicle you are now stuck or have to put the old filter back on assuming you have not had to drive a screwdriver through it to remove.

  • patrick88 07/19/08 6:23 pm PST

    Paullis,
    Exactly, always verify (who was it? Regan that said trust but verify) just like when someone receives advice here the best thing to do (if possible) is to listen than verify. I've seen some really good advice/help on these forums but I've seen some screwed up advice too. Most of the screwed answers are probably done out of "I think I know" or "it worked for me" but that doesn't always cut it. But overall some really good people and info thrown out here.
    I've ordered parts online and have run into simular situations (your oil filter example) and was lucky enought to have other transportation available but most people don't. So the point you made is outstanding, trust but verify. Enough of my sermon...
    Did the new link solve the problem?

  • paullis 07/20/08 1:42 am PST

    Yes, it was Ronald Reagan concerning the Soviet Union. Now for a little confession. The 4 Runner had sat idle for about a week and when we tried to start it the battery was dead so I grabbed a spare. As you know, even though all top terminals are off center they are not always in the same configuration and as I have said previously, without my glasses I don't see real well. Well, I installed the battery backwards. Of course this is when I noticed the fusible link was blown since I had no electricity at all, not even dash lights. I have corrected that problem but now even though I can crank the engine it will not fire. I will check for spark to the distributor cap tomorrow. A mistake only a shade tree mechanic would make. Very embarrasing.

  • patrick88 07/20/08 1:50 am PST

    Actually not only a shade tree mechanic would do that I've seen guys who are ASE (even Master) do it. They get in a hurry and think that the post should be there and bingo. Then there's the cases of guys who buy used cars and see the red cable or red cover over a post and think it's positive not knowing (or looking) and finding out too late that the previous owner used a red cable to hook up the negative side. It happens, but you learn from it.
    Good luck and let us know about the spark etc.. then we'll take it from there.
    Pat

  • bandit10 07/21/08 3:19 am PST

    patrick88 is right. Stuff happens to the best of us, even the PROS. I'm a shadetree mechanic and there were times when the tree not the branch fell on me. Don't beat yourself up over this. Your not the first and you'll never be the last to make an error. Like patrick88 said send back feedback from your experience. It really benefits all of us. That's one of many reasons I like this web site, because it's people friendly. Good luck.

  • patrick88 07/21/08 10:48 am PST

    I'm like Bandit, not just the branch hit me but the whole shade tree! (and also not only the ugly stick but the whole tree too :-) )
    I'll make a conession now too. I got hit by the whole forest about a week ago! I was putting in a Temp Sensor for my Mother in her old Mazda 323 and I accidently used too much torque and snapped it off inside the head! I still say it had a defect, but those brass fittings snap real easy (they are not even the size of my little finger!) I finger tightened it and then used the ratchet for not even a 1/2 turn. Man talk about embarassement. Couldn't get the rest of it out and had to use a tap (after trying everything) to finish it off, the second mistake was I used the wrong sized tap and ended up with too big of a hole! So anyway, ended up sliding another sensor in the hole and used JB weld to hold it until I can do a proper repair. (It's held for a couple hundred miles and may just leave it for awhile just to see how long the JB Weld will hold under the heat and pressure of the head and coolant. Someone told me it'll last forever.. anybody have experience with this stuff? I've always laughted at people using this stuff instead of welding etc.. but now...I don't know). So as you can see it happens to us all. I've been a shadetree and ASE Cert. for 30 years working on these things and still screw up.

  • paullis 07/21/08 5:26 pm PST

    Finally the conclusion to the tale. The reversed voltage also took out the 15 Amp fuse for the EFI. therefore, no gas. I thought it was going to be spark but that would have led to the coil or distributor and I couldn't really accuse them. Thanks for the support and I will use the site again. I had posted another question about getting lug nuts off whose heads are almost rounded off.

  • waggawee 08/06/08 4:26 am PST

    Yes there is, on the fuse link there is a black housing covering it, if you notice it can be pull. There are 2 nuts holding down the 80 amp fuse. So it cant be pull unless you pull those nuts.

    Source: I am an Auto electrican.

  • paullis 08/06/08 8:13 pm PST

    Actually the black housing encasing/covering the link has to be released with a clip on the side. You cannot remove the bolts until you remove the link from the black housing. Once the link is removed from the black housing you can access the bolts and nuts holding the link. After replacement when you slide the link back into the housing you will hear a click when the holding clip is in place.

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