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  • MrShift@Edmunds 06/12/09 10:12 am PST



    sorry but this space is too small to reproduce the electrical schematics so that they would be readable. You might consider just ordering up a workshop manual from Amazon or eBay or a one-time subscription to www.alldatadiy.com to get this schematic.

    Actually if you could pop the switch out for that window, you could by-pass it and see if that's the problem. Presuming all the other windows are working, we can eliminate the master switch, so then if by-passing the individual LH door switch does not do anything, you should probably remove the door panel and test the motor.

    REMOVAL PROCEDURE

    1. Insert a flat bladed tool under the rear edge of the door switch plate. IMPORTANT: Before lifting the switch plate from the door trim panel, ensure that the flat bladed tool has fully disengaged the retainer clip. Otherwise damage to the switch plate or the retainer clip may occur.

    2. Push the tool firmly towards the switch plate to disengage the retention clip.

    1. Lift up on the rear of the switch plate and remove it from the door trim panel.
    2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
    3. Remove the power window switch from the switch plate by disengaging the side snap walls with small flat bladed tool.


  • gigisnowy 08/02/13 10:45 pm PST

    I just did all this....You can check fuses and relays [almost forgot this and I did not dissconnect the rearseat battery...some recommend when genarally doing electrical diagnotics]. After second panel is removed [youtube video] you see a black plastic box named 'door module'/...find just one end plug ...which will have just four fat wires [this is key]...remove plug from module ...its brown and blue wire deliver 12volts directly to the window motor. [optional] Removed plug from motor too. I checked these two plugs ...from the module to the motor connector... with an ometer to see if breaks existed within them. Reconnect plug back on motor. Next key step use a set of alligator clip wires and remote 12v battery.... you send battery current thru these two blue and brown wires. A little 12v battey can be found a Wallmart for around $30 unless you have a second in another car or hangin around. This will test the motor and the up/down regulator attached directly to window glass's bottom. Check glass is truly on track... If these all work okay then... the switch or door module itself is suspect. My switch was fine. Test the switch...simply pop out and swap with another door's switch [ignition key 'on']. The switch can be cleaned if dirty but otherwise is not repairable. If okay then the module is strongly suspect, my opinion. Mine did emit a clicking sound [????]. This can be swapped out also from another door. Likely not repairable unless there is a loose solder spot. The aggravation here is door panel removing [see youtube]. Non electrical tools are explained. If all else fails then it's likely a wire or connection issue/ I might have missed something if this doesn't solve the problem. Then a trip to you know where. All this can take 2-4 hours for a newbie...me.

    Source: you tube for door panel removal

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