Edmunds Answers

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  • avatar shade_tree 06/06/09 3:26 pm PST

    I changed my starter yesterday, 6/5/09. Here is the proceedure I used.
    1 - Remove battery cables, battery retaining bar, and then remove the battery. 10 MM wrench.
    2 - Remove the air filter. This will require you to take of main mount bolt (12 MM),
    the air intake hose (clamp 10 MM) and all connected sensors and hoses (pliers).
    3 - Remove the air intake hose (10 MM) connected to the fuel injection housing and remaining hoses surrounding the area (pliers).
    4 - Remove as many hoses (pliers) as you can from the area between the fuel injection and the transmission dip stick (for auto transmissions).
    5 - You will find the starter on top of the engine block, aft of the fuel injection and below the remaining hoses. I recommend you do not disconnect the fuel lines, hydraulic, and electrical lines, but you should disconnect the factory installed hose retaining clamps (those intended to help in installaiton, not the clamps for sealing vaccum. If you can't get your arm through the remaining hoses to find the bolts, you need to remove more vacuum hoses abd clamps. Do not work with any clamps straping your arm (trust me).
    <<Note - Look at the replacement starter for better idea of how to take off bolts and electrical lines>>
    6 - Use 12 mm socket with 6 - 8 inch extension and take off the two aft bolts first (lower bolts on firewall side of starter). I had to get a steel pipe for better leverage, but got both off (lowest bolt was a bugger).
    7 - Disconnect the negative electrical connection by hand (black plastic connector).
    8 - Disconnect the positive terminal nut (mine was colored red) with 10 MM socket and extension. You will have to work around the hoses. It is the aft bolt closet to the firewall.
    9 - Use 12 mm socket to take out the remaining upper bolt (between starter and manifold on top of the engine).
    10 - Grab the starter by the bell housing (where cog is exposed) and pulll the starter out bell housing first. The flat mount plate should face upwards as you work the starter through the space between the hoses and the manifold/fuel injection housing.
    11 - Reverse the proceedure to install the starter.
    << Note - You will notice that the mount plate bolt hole have a recess where it fits onto the engine block. Once you have the starter in general area for mount, move the starter around until the starter seats into the recess points (you may have to pull up on the hoses to prevent them from displacing the starter away from the mount position>>

    I hope that helps.


    Source: My Experience

Answers

  • bandit10 05/25/08 8:45 pm PST

    Truthfully you might have to attack from the top and the bottom, because of it's location. Some bolts maybe top side and bottom side as well electrical conections. Be sure to disconnect the negitive ground cable first. Did you have the starter checked out by AutoZone or another autoparts retailer. They will do it free of charge. You never know if it's really the starter sometimes. Get a check up first.

  • shade_tree 06/06/09 3:26 pm PST

    I changed my starter yesterday, 6/5/09. Here is the proceedure I used.
    1 - Remove battery cables, battery retaining bar, and then remove the battery. 10 MM wrench.
    2 - Remove the air filter. This will require you to take of main mount bolt (12 MM),
    the air intake hose (clamp 10 MM) and all connected sensors and hoses (pliers).
    3 - Remove the air intake hose (10 MM) connected to the fuel injection housing and remaining hoses surrounding the area (pliers).
    4 - Remove as many hoses (pliers) as you can from the area between the fuel injection and the transmission dip stick (for auto transmissions).
    5 - You will find the starter on top of the engine block, aft of the fuel injection and below the remaining hoses. I recommend you do not disconnect the fuel lines, hydraulic, and electrical lines, but you should disconnect the factory installed hose retaining clamps (those intended to help in installaiton, not the clamps for sealing vaccum. If you can't get your arm through the remaining hoses to find the bolts, you need to remove more vacuum hoses abd clamps. Do not work with any clamps straping your arm (trust me).
    <<Note - Look at the replacement starter for better idea of how to take off bolts and electrical lines>>
    6 - Use 12 mm socket with 6 - 8 inch extension and take off the two aft bolts first (lower bolts on firewall side of starter). I had to get a steel pipe for better leverage, but got both off (lowest bolt was a bugger).
    7 - Disconnect the negative electrical connection by hand (black plastic connector).
    8 - Disconnect the positive terminal nut (mine was colored red) with 10 MM socket and extension. You will have to work around the hoses. It is the aft bolt closet to the firewall.
    9 - Use 12 mm socket to take out the remaining upper bolt (between starter and manifold on top of the engine).
    10 - Grab the starter by the bell housing (where cog is exposed) and pulll the starter out bell housing first. The flat mount plate should face upwards as you work the starter through the space between the hoses and the manifold/fuel injection housing.
    11 - Reverse the proceedure to install the starter.
    << Note - You will notice that the mount plate bolt hole have a recess where it fits onto the engine block. Once you have the starter in general area for mount, move the starter around until the starter seats into the recess points (you may have to pull up on the hoses to prevent them from displacing the starter away from the mount position>>

    I hope that helps.


    Source: My Experience

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